By Dennis Aribido | twitter: @dennisaribido
The April 24, 2013 factory building collapse in Bangladesh
with almost 3,500 garment workers, mostly teenagers, housing five garment
factories, drawn the world’s attention
again to the greatest lost of lives in
the history of garment industry in that country after a garment factory fire
out-break which occurred earlier in the year. About 1,127 workers lost their
lives in this latest incident.
The garment industry accounted for about 70% of the country’s
exports generating $20 billion in revenue annually. The sector serves the major
global garment retailers like – Zara, H&M, Wal-Mart, Mango, Primark, GAP,
JC Penny, Marks & Spencer and others. The fact that the industry employs
about 80% women, yet it four million garment workers earn an average of 10 - 30
cent an hour as wages and work in mostly unsafe buildings under deplorable
conditions are indication of low level of poverty. Bangladesh is one of the
poorest countries in the world with most people living on less than $2 a day.
Following the incident, Civil Society and International
Rights Organisations raised concerns about the safety and unethical standards,
poor working conditions, child labour issues, low wages, corruption and
non-compliance with international labour laws. The big retailers in US and
Europe have been called to show accountability and responsibility toward their
transactional deals with the manufacturers as well as commitment to
implementing global best safety practices. This will ameliorate the current
crises rocking the industry.
In the wake of these calls, the Industrial Global Union of
Geneva, Switzerland set a deadline for global retailers that source products
from Bangladesh factories to sign agreement ensuring workers safety. About 24 large
global retailers have now signed the multi-stakeholder responsibility accord –
a 5 years plan - to work closely with the manufacturers and the government to
ensure better safety and working condition. According to a report in Knowledge@Wharton Today, under the
legally enforceable agreement, retailers will finance independent factory
safety inspections and mandatory repairs and renovations, make reports public,
allow workers a say in safety conditions and stop sourcing from those factories
that do not meet specifications. Retailer like Wal-Mart has already blacklisted
close to 250 factories it found unsafe. The United Nations is also expected to push
the government to carrying-out reforms in the sector through extensive
collaboration with International Labour Organisation (ILO) to recommend
standards in the country’s garment industry.
The Bangladeshi government needs to show greater commitment
towards policy reforms, better regulatory framework and collaboration with
labour unions, global retailers, and international bodies to fight corruption while
ensuring punitive measures and tougher sanctions on violators. The Foreign
Minister speaking at the UN said, the country welcome the new development and
looking forward to collaborating with the stakeholders in working out best
strategies to improve the sector.
The incident in Bangladesh should serve as a great lesson to
other parts of the world mostly the emerging markets with similar or even worst
situations to reform their labour policies, improve on workers welfare and
safety and also implement global best practices. They need not wait for the
inevitable but rather proactively optimize the safety standards and put in
place adaptive measures to prevent the inevitable from happening. Also, it is a
wake-up call to the international watchdogs to galvanize the needed resources
and the use of various channels to compel all stakeholders to show
accountability, commitment and responsibility.